Archaeology trip to Hengistbury Head: October 12th

Helen Jackson

The 14 members who crossed to Lymington had a glorious day for their exploration. It was mild and sunny, with clear blue skies that gave us far-reaching views showing how strategic the position of this headland was from the time of the first humans who colonised the area after the last Ice Age. Our guide, David Freeman, led us along the track that encircles the headland and gave us a thorough and fascinating picture of changes over the millennia.

The most visible archaeology is to be seen at the start of the walk near the Visitor Centre:
an early Iron Age earthwork, consisting of a double ditch and bank, stretches across the approach to the site. Its purpose is unclear, there is no evidence that it was defensive.

The largest of 13 barrows identified on the headland can be seen as you set out on your walk. The cremated remains were of a young woman buried with finds, including small gold cones, that show she was of high status.

At the end of the last Ice Age, two rivers brought alluvium which created sand and gravel deposits. Underneath this the rock contained about 30 % iron, which contributed to the importance of the area. A distinctive feature are the ‘doggers’, lumps of ironstone resembling bollards, many of which were removed in the past to extract the ore.

As we walked along we looked across at Mudeford Spit, created by longshore drift and forming a narrow entrance to Christchurch harbour. This has been important for trade since the Bronze Age.
We looked back to a beautiful view of Christchurch Priory. The first Saxon settlement, a pagan one, was in the angle between the 2 rivers. The later, Christian one, was around the site of the current priory and separated from the older one by marshes.

We stopped by the site of a late Iron Age village. Evidence for about 20 houses has been found, about 7 to 8 metres in diameter. There were 2 basic designs, one plank built and one stake built, but no posts used such as can be seen on other Iron Age sites. A very curious, unusual feature is small fences surrounding each house. The reason is not known; were they marking ownership or personal space? David suggested that with many incomers and visitors, including accommodation for sailors, the village may not have been as communal as others elsewhere. There was a mint here, producing Durotrigian coins. Gravel was brought to the shore to create a firm base for pulling boats onto. The River Avon was probably navigable up to Salisbury.

Our next stop was to note some Victorian impact. A fenced off area containing non-native plants was the site of an intended kitchen garden. In the late 19th century, Mr Selfridge of department store fame planned to build a castle on the headland. Fortunately he began by commissioning the garden but ran out of money before he could start on the building.

Old Ironstone Quarry, Hengistbury Head. – Pierre Terre / CC BY-SA 2.0

Another Victorian activity was iron extraction on a more industrial scale than in prehistoric times which has left huge spoil heaps. They also removed dome of the doggers from the beach which caused erosion. A track leading uphill was the site of a wooden railway for transporting the ore. A large lagoon, now a haven for wildlife, was originally dug out as a Victorian dock.

After passing the upmarket beach huts, which sell for eye-watering sums, we climbed steps to the headland with its stunning views to the Needles and across Bournemouth beach, Poole harbour, Swanage and the cliffs beyond. How fortunate that this was not ruined or made inaccessible by Mr Selfridge’s castle.

As we returned along the Western edge we passed a paleolithic site which is now right on the cliff edge but would have been more inland. Next was a mesolithic site; quantities of worked flints from both periods were later seen in the museums.

The scrub on the inland side covers about 11 eroded Bronze Age burial mounds. Neolithic field systems have been identified on Lidar.

Pools are flooded evidence of the Victorian iron mining. In Norman times this ironstone was used to build Christchurch castle.

As we descended the steep path to return to the Visitors Centre we had a clear view of the Iron Age bank and ditches stretching the width of the peninsula; the ends are now lost to erosion.

View to the west

We were then ready for lunch and time to look in the small but very informative museum which contains some finds and some replicas from the area.

After lunch we headed into Christchurch to the Red House museum. We expected to see more finds from the site but there was much more than we anticipated and we had to rush through before the museum closed. Another small, but excellent museum. Some members appreciated the free access to drawers with further samples to study and photograph. Of particular interest was the Iron Age Armorican (Britanny) pottery as it is possible that it can also be found here on the Island. It has long been believed that trade between the Isle of Wight and Hengistbury was well established before the Roman invasion. Pottery and Durotrigian coins are just some examples of the evidence to look for.

This was agreed to be an enjoyable and fascinating day with many of us planning to return and spend more time there.

The following map is reproduced by kind permission of  Ian West, M.Sc. Ph.D. F.G.S.  (click on the map to expand it)

You will find an extensive collection of information, photographs and maps HERE